In 1925 James Oviatt attended the Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs. Captivated by the beauty of Art Deco, Oviatt commissioned the leading European craftsmen, including renowned jeweler and glass designer Rene Lalique to ornament a magnificent building that became the new home of James Oviatt and Frank Alexander exclusive men’s clothing store. Completed in 1927 the Oviatt Building was the first Art Deco building in Los Angeles.
In 1928 the penthouse created for Oviatt’s own use was named by the Los Angeles Times “a castle in the air”. Today fully restored it remains an exclusive reception venue.
The Cicada restaurant occupies the ground floor of the original haberdashery. As you approach the lobby of the restaurant you are transported to a different world. The ornate Lalique crystal doors embellished with gold are breath taking. As you proceed in the restaurant, which is on two levels, you cannot take your eyes off the 30 feet hand carved maple columns leading to the gold leaf ceiling. On the lower level there is a dance floor and a stage surrounded by tables and on the upper level a plush custom designed bar and lounge opened on the lower level with tables along the balcony.
I had the pleasure to meet with Suzay Cha, head chef of the restaurant. Suzay is a champion of fine art, design and culinary arts. After an early career in health, beauty and management of the famous Mezzotint master artist, Gatja Rothe, Suzay felt a calling for the restaurant business. She opened her own restaurant in Tustin, “Mondu Suzay”, specializing in dumpling and salad. The menu included a potato salad officially recognized by Orange County Weekly as the best in Orange County. As she said, this was the beginning of her culinary journey. She completed her education at Laguna Culinary Arts School in Laguna Beach.
Today at Cicada she has the freedom of letting her imagination suggest and create unique dishes, adding her own touch to traditional Italian and French specialties.
In the pastas category I was particularly impressed by the Shitake gnocchi with mushrooms ragout in a port wine sauce and also the herb infused fettuccini with half a lobster tail, porcini oyster mushrooms and white wine. For my entree I chose the tournedo of salmon with rose lentils, spinach, coriander and fennel with a beurre blanc sauce. It was delicious. My guest had the New Zealand rack of lamb encrusted with whole grain mustard, au gratin potatoes and haricots verts.
I cannot wait to try the filet mignon with foie gras and green apples in a Cabernet sauvignon sauce. In the desserts I really loved the Golden delicious apple tart; thinly sliced apples, layered over almond frangipani, baked in a puff pastry, normally served with vanilla bean ice cream, but I had mine with cinnamon ice cream.
The restaurant is dimly lit. The Staff is formal and competent. Every Thursday, from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. you can enjoy live music in the lounge. In this beautiful Art Deco setting I cannot think of a more glamorous and romantic evening.
Cicada restaurant is located at 617 South Olive Street in Los Angeles, Telephone 213 488-9546, On the web at www.cicadarestaurant.com. Hours Monday-Friday lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Closed Sundays.
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